14 Small Vegetable Garden Methods

Grady Trent2 days ago

0 0 14 minutes read

About 1/3 of Americans live in apartments, and another 1/3 live in homes with tiny yards—places where traditional gardening just isn’t an option. But that doesn’t mean you have to miss out on homegrown veggies.

With a little creativity and the right techniques, you can grow a surprising amount of food in even small spaces. This guide teaches how to use wall planters, hanging planters, garden shelves, window boxes, potato towers, companion planting, succession planets, and much more.

Whether you’ve got a balcony, porch, patio, or just a sunny window, you can still grow lots of fresh food.

Wall Planters

Wall planters are containers or pockets mounted onto fences, walls, or railings.

Types of Wall Planters

Fabric Pocket Planters – Made from felt or canvas and come with multiple pockets, each of which is a small planter.
Modular Wall Planter Systems – Interlocking containers or trays that snap or mount together. Sometimes they come with built-in watering systems.
Wall Boxes – Traditional box-style planters that mount on a wall or fence. These are heavier and more permanent.
Plant Hanger Grid – A metal wrack that attaches to a wall or fence. You can hang all sorts of planters from it.

Best Plants for Wall Planters

Herbs: Basil, thyme, oregano, mint, parsley, cilantro.
Flowers: Marigolds, nasturtiums, pansies.
Leafy Greens: Lettuce, arugula, spinach, Swiss chard.
Strawberries: Especially in pocket planters.
Succulents: For ornamental setups with low maintenance needs.

Pros of Wall Planters

Easy to maintain – Less bending or kneeling.
Good air circulation – Reduces plant diseases in humid environments.
Customizable – Fit your space and style easily.

Cons of Wall Planters

Limited root space – Not good for large or deep-rooted plants.
Can dry out fast – Needs frequent watering, especially fabric planters.
Wall damage risk – Moisture can seep into walls if drainage isn’t managed.
Weight limits – Not all walls or fences can handle heavy planters.

Wall Planter Tips

Use a liner or tray behind fabric planters to keep the wall from getting wet.
Use strong wall anchors or brackets, especially for wood or metal planters. You don’t want them falling on the ground.

Trellises

A support structure that allows climbing plants and vines to grow vertically.

Types of Trellises

Flat Trellis Panels – Attach to wells, fences, or staked into the ground.
A-Frame Trellises – Shaped like a tent or triangle and can straddle a garden bed. Great for heavier vines like cucumbers.
Teepee Trellises – Tall and pyramid-shaped. Ideal for vegetables like beans or peas.
Arches and Arbors – Basically, a tunnel or entryway made of growing plants. Great for beans and squash.
DIY Trellises – Can be made from bamboo, wire mesh, wooden stakes, etc.

Best Plants for Trellises

Vegetables like peas, squash, pole beans, cucumbers, and cherry tomatoes.
Fruits like grapes, kiwi, and small melons.
Herbs such as basil or mint.
Flowers such as nasturtiums or morning glories.

Pros of Trellises

Good air circulation – Helps prevent mold and mildew.
Easy harvesting – Fruit and veggies are easy to reach.
Pest control – Keeps plants off the ground, reducing pest damage.
Shade and privacy – Tall trellised plants can provide shade.

Cons of Trellises

Wind exposure – Can be top-heavy and may blow over if not anchored well.
Weight limits – Some crops (like melons) need extra support to avoid stressing the vines.
More maintenance – You’ll have to spend time pruning and tying up vines.

Trellis Tips

Use soft ties or garden clips to train plants up the trellis.
Install trellises before planting so you don’t disturb roots later.
For heavy crops like squash, use netting or old t-shirts as slings to support the fruit.

Hanging Planters

Hang baskets from railings, overhangs, ceiling hooks, shepherd’s hooks, or pergolas.

Types of Hanging Planters

Basket Planters – Wire or woven baskets lined with moss or coconut coir.
Hanging Pots – Usually made from plastic or resin.
Macrame or Fabric Hangers – Good for suspending pots or jars.
Upside-Down Planters – Tomatoes or strawberries grow out the bottom.
Vertical Hanging Systems – Multi-tiered or stacked planters hanging from a single hook or frame.

Best Plants for Hanging Planters

Choose lightweight, compact, or trailing plants. Here are ideal options:

Herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, cilantro, and mint (in a separate pot).
Greens such as leaf lettuce, spinach, arugula.
Strawberries, especially alpine or trailing types.
Cherry tomatoes, but be sure to choose patio varieties.
Peppers, but small or dwarf varieties.
Edible flowers like nasturtiums, pansies, calendula.

Pros of Hanging Planters

Portable – These are easy to move around for better sunlight.
Protects plants from pests – Much harder for pests to reach.
Great airflow – Reduces risk of fungal disease.

Cons of Hanging Planters

Can dry out quickly – Exposed to more wind and sun.
Weight concerns – Heavy planters need very strong hooks or mounting.
Limited root space – Not good for deep-rooted plants.

Hanging Basket Tips

Use moisture-retaining potting mix or add water-absorbing crystals.
Line the baskets with coconut coir or moss to hold soil but still allow drainage.
Water them a lot, especially in hot or windy weather.
Hang somewhere the plants will get 6 hours of sun per day, and use rotating hooks to shift light exposure.

Garden Shelves

Stackable shelves or tiered plant stands for porches and patios.

Types of Garden Shelves

Best Plants for Garden Shelves

Because shelves allow varying pot sizes and microclimates, you can grow all sorts of things.

Top Shelf (Most Sun): Tomatoes, peppers, and strawberries.
Middle Shelves (Filtered Light): dill, parsley, thyme, cilantro, kale, lettuce, Swiss chard, etc.
Bottom Shelf (Shade-Tolerant): Spinach, arugula, mint (best grown in its own pot).

You can also use shelves for seed starting trays, microgreens, or propagation cuttings.

Pros of Garden Shelves

Portable – Many can be moved indoors or adjusted seasonally.
Customizable sunlight – You can position plants based on their light needs.
Doubles as storage – Use lower shelves for tools, supplies, or watering cans.

Cons of Garden Shelves

Uneven sunlight – Lower shelves get shaded by upper levels.
Weight limits – Shelves have to be sturdy enough for wet soil and pots.
Wind risk – Tall shelves can tip over if not stabilized, especially with lightweight containers.

Garden Shelf Tips

Put tall plants on the top shelf and shorter ones on lower shelves.
Secure the shelves to a wall or railing if you’re in a windy area.
Consider rotating the plants on a regular basis for even growth.

Gutter Gardens

Mount gutters to a fence or wall and grow shallow-rooted plants like lettuce and herbs.

Types of Gutter Gardens

Repurposed Rain Gutters – Cut and mount house gutters, add end camps, and drill drainage holes.
Gutter Planter Kits – Designed for gardening and come with brackets and drip trays. Easy to install.
Vertical Gutter Towers – This is where you stack short gutter segments vertically on a frame or pallet.
Hanging Gutter Gardens – Hang the gutters from chains or ropes like a ladder.

Best Plants for Gutter Gardens

Since gutters are shallow, stick to compact, shallow-rooted, or trailing plants:

Leafy greens like lettuce, arugula, baby spinach, and mustard greens.
Herbs like basil, thyme, oregano, cilantro, and chives.
Strawberries, especially alpine or small-fruiting varieties.
Radishes, which are the perfect size and grow fast.
Succulents or edible flowers.

Pros of Gutter Gardens

Inexpensive – Especially if you use repurposed materials.
Easy to harvest – No bending or kneeling required.
Keeps plants off the ground – Less risk of disease or pests.

Cons of Gutter Gardens

Limited soil depth – Not suitable for root veggies or larger plants.
Can dry out fast – Small soil volume = faster evaporation.
Weight management – Needs solid mounting or brackets.

Gutter Garden Tips

Use high-quality potting mix with good moisture retention.
Drill drainage holes every 6–12 inches and seal the ends with caps.
Mount at a slight tilt for better water flow.
Add a slow-release organic fertilizer every few weeks.

Ladder Gardens

Repurpose an old ladder with planks across the rungs to hold pots.

Types of Ladder Gardens

Lean-To Ladder Shelf – A standard ladder or ladder-style shelf leaning against a wall or fence.
A-Frame Ladder Garden – Two ladders with shelves or planks across the steps.
Tiered Ladder Planter Boxes – Built-in planter boxes angled upward like steps.
DIY Upcycled Ladder Garden – Reuse an old wooden or metal ladder.

Best Plants for Ladder Gardens

The tiered design lets you grow a variety of small to medium plants.

Top Rungs (Full Sun): Peppers, strawberries, small bush beans, and cherry tomatoes (small pots).
Middle Rungs: Herbs like basil, parsley, oregano, thyme, cilantro, and leafy greens like lettuce, kale, Swiss chard.
Lower Rungs (More Shade): Arugula, spinach, microgreens, and mint (in separate pot).

Pros of Ladder Gardens

Easy access – Harvesting and maintenance is simple and ergonomic.
Flexible setup – Moveable, customizable, and fits most small spaces.
Can combine with trellising – A-frame models can support climbing plants.

Cons of Ladder Gardens

Uneven light exposure – Lower tiers may be shaded by upper ones.
Limited root depth – Plan accordingly with plant selection.
Weathering concerns – Wood ladders need sealing or paint to withstand rain.

Ladder Garden Tips

Angle shelves or boxes slightly downward for drainage.
Rotate the pots weekly for even sunlight if some tiers are shaded.
If you’re using pots, choose ones with drainage trays to avoid mess.

Window Boxes

Perfect for herbs, radishes, or salad greens on window sills or railings.

Types of Window Boxes

Plastic or Resin Boxes – Lightweight and weather-resistant.
Wooden Window Boxes – Needs sealing or liner to prevent rot.
Metal Window Boxes – These often come with a liner or coco coir insert.
DIY Window Boxes – Made from pallets, crates, or upcycled containers.

Best Plants for Window Boxes

Because of their shallow depth and sun exposure, window boxes are perfect for:

Herbs like basil, oregano, parsley, thyme, chives, cilantro, and dill.
Greens such as lettuce, spinach, arugula, and baby kale.
Edibles like radishes, green onions, small peppers, cherry tomatoes, and alpine strawberries.
Edible flowers like nasturtiums, pansies, and calendula.

Pros of Window Boxes

Space-efficient – You can use windows you’d otherwise ignore.
Easy access – Just open the window and snip herbs or greens.
Good sun exposure – Windows often face the best light spots.

Cons of Window Boxes

Limited soil depth – Not great for root vegetables or larger plants.
Can dry out quickly – Especially in sun-exposed, windy windows.
Weight issues – Wet soil is heavy; secure brackets are essential.
Requires good drainage – Can cause mess if not properly managed.

Window Box Tips

Use a high-quality, lightweight potting mix with compost.
Add a drip tray or saucer underneath if mounted indoors or over patios.
For deeper boxes, add a trellis or stake for small climbing varieties.

Potato Towers

Stack soil or straw around sprouting potatoes in a vertical cage.

Types of Potato Towers

Wire Mesh Cylinder – Made from hardware cloth or chicken wire shaped into a tube.
Wooden Frame Tower – Stacked wooden boxes or boards, added as the plant grows.
Grow Bags or Fabric Towers – Extra-tall grow bags or specialized tower bags with side flaps for harvesting.
Stacked Buckets or Crates – Stackable containers with holes in the sides or bottom.
Compost-Pile Style – Build a freestanding pile of soil, straw, and compost layered around growing potatoes.

Best (and Only Realistic) Crop for Towers: Potatoes

Potatoes are unique because they form tubers all along the underground part of their stems. As you hill up soil or straw around them, they keep producing more—making vertical growing possible and productive.

You could experiment with sweet potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, ginger, turmeric, carrots, and maybe beets, but your results might not be great.

Pros of Potato Towers

Huge harvest with a small footprint – Perfect for tiny gardens or patios.
Easy harvesting – Just open the sides and harvest.
Fewer pest problems – Growing vertically helps avoid ground-level pests.

Cons of Potato Towers

Can dry out quickly – Towers need more frequent watering than in-ground beds.
Needs regular attention – You have to keep adding soil/straw as the plant grows.
Not foolproof – Poor drainage, the wrong potato type, or not enough light can lead to low yields.

Potato Tower Tips

Start with 3–4 seed potatoes at the base, spaced evenly.
As plants grow 6–8 inches tall, add more soil or straw—keep only the top few inches of foliage exposed.
Water deeply and consistently—potatoes hate drying out.
Use compost-rich, loose soil for best results.
Harvest when the plants die back—cut open the side or dump the tower to collect your crop.

Organize crops in a grid system to maximize yields in raised beds or boxes.

Core Principles of SFG

Raised Beds – Standard size is 4×4 ft (16 squares), but any size can work.
Grid System – A visible grid (made of string, wood, or plastic) divides the surface into 1×1 ft sections.
Soil Mix – Uses a blend of 1/3 compost, 1/3 peat moss (or coconut coir), and 1/3 vermiculite.
Spacing by Plant Size – Instead of rows, you plant based on how many plants fit per square. For example:
- 1 per square – tomatoes, peppers, broccoli.
- 4 per square – lettuce, Swiss chard.
- 9 per square – spinach, bush beans.
- 16 per square – carrots, radishes.

Types of Square Foot Gardens

Classic Raised Bed Grids – Wooden or composite boxes with a physical grid.
Tabletop or Elevated SFG Beds – These are raised up on legs for accessibility.
Vertical SFG Variations – Add trellises for vining crops (like cucumbers or pole beans).
Container-Based SFG – Adapt the method to multiple containers by assigning square-foot “zones” per pot or bin.

Best Plants for Square Foot Gardening

SFG thrives with plants that have well-defined spacing needs and grow compactly:

Greens & Leafy Veggies like lettuce, spinach, kale, arugula, and Swiss chard.
Root Crops like carrots, beets, radishes, green onions, and turnips.
Fruiting Veggies like tomatoes, peppers, bush beans, and cucumbers.
Herbs like basil, parsley, cilantro, dill, and chives.
Others plants like strawberries, garlic, leeks, and marigolds (as companions).

Pros of Square Foot Gardening

High productivity – Intense planting = more yield per square foot.
Easy planning – Simple math and layout make garden design a breeze.
Beginner-friendly – Easy to manage and scale up as you go.

Cons of Square Foot Gardening

Limited root space – Deep-rooted plants may need more room or deeper beds.
Requires ongoing planning – For best yield, you’ll need to rotate and plan seasonally.
May dry out quickly – Beds are well-draining, but that means more watering in hot weather.

Replant squares as you harvest—this is where succession planting shines.
Keep a planting chart or journal to track what goes where and when.
Add companion flowers like marigolds or nasturtiums to attract pollinators and repel pests.

Companion Planting

Combine plants that benefit each other to save space and boost growth.

Core Benefits of Companion Planting

Pest control – Some plants repel harmful insects from their neighbors.
Pollination boost – Flowering companions attract beneficial insects.
Nutrient efficiency – Different plants pull different nutrients from the soil.
Soil health – Some companions (like legumes) add nitrogen to the soil which benefits surrounding plants.

Great Companion Planting Examples

Classic Combos That Work

Tomatoes + Basil + Marigolds
- Basil repels pests and can enhance tomato flavor.
- Marigolds deter nematodes and aphids.
Corn + Beans + Squash (“Three Sisters”)
- Corn provides a trellis for beans.
- Beans add nitrogen to the soil.
- Squash shades the ground to suppress weeds and retain moisture.
Carrots + Onions
- Onions deter carrot flies; carrots help repel onion flies.
Lettuce + Radishes + Chives
- Radishes mature quickly and loosen soil for lettuce.
- Chives repel aphids and improve lettuce flavor.
Cucumbers + Nasturtiums + Dill
- Nasturtiums attract aphids away from cucumbers.
- Dill attracts beneficial insects like predatory wasps.
Peppers + Oregano + Marjoram
- Oregano offers ground cover and pest deterrence.
- Marjoram enhances pepper flavor and attracts pollinators.

Pros of Companion Planting

Maximizes small spaces – Layered planting means more food per square foot.
Reduces pest pressure naturally – Fewer chemicals or interventions needed.
Attracts beneficial insects – Supports a healthy, balanced garden ecosystem.
Improves soil health – Strategic combinations enhance nutrient cycling.

Cons of Companion Planting

Trial and error – Results can vary based on conditions, pests, and timing.
Can complicate crop rotation – Mixed plantings make it harder to rotate by plant family.

Companion Planting Tips

Avoid bad companions like:
- Tomatoes + Brassicas (competition)
- Onions + Beans (onions stunt beans)
- Potatoes + Tomatoes (both attract blight)
Use companion planting charts or apps to plan your garden layout.
Don’t forget about flowers and herbs—they make good allies.

Succession Planting

Stagger planting times to keep harvesting throughout the season.

Types of Succession Planting

Same Crop, Staggered Timing – Plant the same vegetable every 1–2 weeks so you don’t get one big harvest all at once.
Different Crops, Back-to-Back – After one crop finishes, plant a different one suited to the next season or timeframe. Example: Peas in spring → bush beans in summer → spinach in fall.
Interplanting (Fast + Slow Growers) – Combine quick crops with slow ones in the same bed. The fast crop matures and is harvested before the slower crop takes over. Example: Radishes (harvest in 30 days) + carrots (harvest in 70+ days).
Relay Planting – Start seeds indoors or in containers, then “relay” them into the space once the current crop is pulled.

Great Succession Planting Examples

Spring → Summer → Fall:
- Lettuce → Bush Beans → Kale
- Spinach → Cucumbers → Turnips
- Radishes → Peppers → Mustard Greens
Same Crop, Staggered:
- Sow lettuce, arugula, or baby spinach every 7–10 days during the cool season.
- Plant bush beans every 2–3 weeks in summer for continuous picking.
Interplanting:
- Radishes + Carrots
- Green onions + Beets
- Bok choy + Tomatoes (bok choy matures before tomatoes take over the space)

How It Boosts Food Production

Reduces garden downtime – No empty space means more total food grown.
Smooths out your harvest – Fewer overwhelming harvest days, more steady eating.
Maximizes yield in small beds – Perfect for raised beds, containers, or square foot gardens.

Pros of Succession Planting

Increases total harvest – More crops in the same space over time.
Keeps your garden productive all season – Something is always growing.
Works with containers, beds, or in-ground – Super versatile.

Cons of Succession Planting

Requires planning – You’ll need a calendar or planting schedule.
Needs consistent seed starting – Especially for indoor or relay crops.
Soil can get tired – Replenish nutrients between crops with compost or fertilizer.
May need to rotate crops carefully – To avoid pest and disease buildup in a single bed.

Succession Planting Tips

Keep a garden planner or calendar to track planting and harvesting dates.
Use quick-maturing varieties (look for 30–60 day crops).
After each crop, amend soil lightly with compost to restore nutrients.

Pallet Planters

Stand pallets vertically and fill slats with soil and plants.

How Pallet Planters Are Built

The pallet is stood upright and lined with landscape fabric or plastic sheeting to form soil pockets between slats. Then soil is added to each row and plants are inserted into the gaps.

Best Plants for Pallet Planters

Since pallet planters usually offer shallow soil and vertical growth, stick with compact and shallow-rooted plants:

Leafy Greens like lettuce, spinach, baby kale, and arugula.
Herbs like basil, thyme, oregano, parsley, cilantro, chives, and mint (in its own section).
Strawberries, especially alpine or everbearing varieties.
Flowers like nasturtiums, pansies, and marigolds.
Small Veggies like radishes, green onions, and baby carrots (with deeper pockets).

Pros of Pallet Planters

Very inexpensive – You can often find them for free.
Customizable – Paint, stain, or modify to match your style and space.
Portable – Can be moved around with a bit of effort.

Cons of Pallet Planters

Limited soil depth – Not suitable for deep-rooted plants.
May leach chemicals – Only use heat-treated pallets marked with “HT” (avoid “MB” or unmarked ones).
Can dry out quickly – Small soil pockets need regular watering.

Pallet Planter Tips

Line the back and bottom with landscape fabric or plastic, and staple it in place to create planting pockets.
Water slowly and consistently—top-down drip irrigation works great.
Mount securely to a wall or use a sturdy base if standing upright.

Rail Planters

Clip or hang planters directly onto balcony or porch railings.

Types of Rail Planters

Hanging Baskets with Railing Hooks – Traditional baskets with metal hooks designed to hang over a railing.
Saddle-Style Planters – Designed to straddle the railing with two pockets—one on each side.
Clamp-On or Bracket Planters – Attach securely using clamps, hooks, or brackets.
DIY Rail Boxes – Made from wood or repurposed materials, built to fit your specific railing dimensions.

Best Plants for Rail Planters

Because of their size and location, rail planters thrive with compact and shallow-rooted plants. Plus, most railings get lots of sun exposure!

Herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, parsley, cilantro, chives, and mint (in its own pot).
Greens like lettuce, arugula, spinach, and baby kale.
Strawberries, especially everbearing or alpine varieties.
Compact Vegetables like radishes, green onions, mini carrots, and dwarf cherry tomatoes.
Edible Flowers & Companions like nasturtiums, marigolds, and pansies (great for attracting pollinators too).

Pros of Rail Planters

Great sun exposure – Railings often get full or partial sun.
Easy access – Great for harvesting herbs or greens right outside your door.
Simple installation – Most of them don’t need tools for installation.

Cons of Rail Planters

Limited soil volume – Not ideal for large or deep-rooted crops.
Can dry out quickly – More wind and sun exposure = frequent watering.
Weight restrictions – Too much soil or water can stress or damage railings.

Rail Planter Tips

Choose self-watering rail planters if available to reduce watering frequency.
Group herbs or greens together by water/sun needs for better performance.
If you live in an apartment, check the rules about what can hang from railings.

Stacked Planters

Tower-style planters allow you to grow several plants in one vertical system.

Types of Stacked Planters

Modular Stackable Systems – Each tier snaps or stacks onto the one below.
DIY Bucket or Pot Stacks – Use different-sized pots or buckets stacked with soil between them.
Rotating Vertical Towers – Premium systems with 360° access and sometimes automatic watering.

Best Plants for Stacked Planters

Because stacked planters usually have limited soil depth, they’re ideal for compact, shallow-rooted, or trailing plants:

Herbs like basil, thyme, oregano, chives, parsley, cilantro, and mint (in its own section).
Greens like lettuce, spinach, arugula, and baby kale.
Strawberries (especially trailing varieties).
Veggies like radishes, green onions, dwarf peppers, small bush beans, and cherry tomatoes.
Edible Flowers like nasturtiums, calendula, and pansies.

Pros of Stacked Planters

Space-saving – You can grow 10–30+ plants in just a couple square feet.
Portable and modular – Easy to move, rearrange, or disassemble.
Efficient watering – Some models allow water to drain from top to bottom tier.

Cons of Stacked Planters

Limited root depth – Not suitable for large or deep-rooted crops.
May dry out quickly – Especially in hot, sunny spots; requires regular watering.
Weight distribution matters – Uneven stacking or heavy top layers can make towers unstable.